Vietnamese Style Baguette Recipe (Baguette for Bánh mì)


27456So…. you love Bánh mì sandwiches and you want to take the next step do you? You’ve pickled your own Do Chua, made your own mayo and pate and have tried every know combination of fillings, what’s there to do next?

Well, the thing you want to do now is try baking your own baguettes. That’s right…you read correctly, I said BAKE. Hey you’re the one with the obsession, not me. 🙂

I’ll tell you right off the hop, I’m not a baker and for me dough is like a soft gooey demon sent to provoke me unto the brink of madness. Therefore this is not my recipe and was created by author Andrea Nguyen, so she gets the kudos. I tend to disagree on some of her points about the bread you’ll generally find with a Bánh mì from a Viet shop, I like the airy, light baguettes that are more authentic to Bánh mì in Vietnam and use rice flour, but to each their own. You can try this and decide for yourself, or do what I do and buy the finish at home baguettes from the supermarket.

The following is credited to Andrea Nguyen on another site.

If you’re used to hardcore approaches like those in Peter Reinhart’s comprehensive Bread Baker’s Apprentice, you don’t need my help. If you’re new to bread baking, you’ll find the information here to be interesting, if not inspiring.

I realized the following during my experiments:

  • Skip the fat. Don’t add butter, shortening, or chicken fat (as I did) to the dough, or it will result in heavier, doughy bread. It weighs the dough down. In Vietnam, fat is a luxury. Why would they add it to bread? Duh.
  • Flour. Just use low-protein unbleached all-purpose flour, like those made by Pillsbury or Gold Medal. King Arthur is fabulous if you want a rustic loaf. What we’re shooting for are tender, fluffy results. Blending wheat flour with cake flour or rice flour doesn’t do much. The rice flour actually weighs down the dough; I used both Asian and regular health food-store rice flour. Cake flour affected the lightness of the dough marginally; if you were using hard wheat flour like King Arthur, then blending would help. For more on flour, visit: http://www.joyofbaking.com/flour.html
  • Yeast. Can be either regular or rapid rise yeast, but I ended up using rapid rise, and bought many reasonably priced 3-packs of SAF at Trader Joe’s for 99 cents each.
  • Sugar. Feeds the yeast and gets it going. I also like the flavor that the sugar adds to the dough.
  • Salt. Regular non-iodized table salt is fine.
  • Water. I used tap.
  • Pan. Get a baguette loaf pan. If you’ve ever tried to lift a long and delicate risen baguette and slide it onto a baking stone or unglazed quarry tiles in the hot oven, you know it’s not easy. I’ve had plenty of loafs stick and become misshapen. On my second day of baking, I dropped baking on baking sheets or stone. I ran to the local gourmet cookware shop and bought a nonstick baguette pan, which many people swear by for circulating heat properly so that the loaves are crisp all over. It works and you can place the shaped loaf in it, let the dough rise and then put it in the oven.
  • Multiple risings. Bread takes time. A good 3 risings yields a good chewy “crumb” (meaty insides of bread).
  • Shaping the loaf matters. There’s a precise way to spring load the loaf so it bursts open through the slashes in the hot oven.
  • Slashing is important. A good sharp knife works fine for slashing. Angle the knife at about 30 degrees for nice slashes. The slashes act like steam vents. When done well, during baking, the bread opens up like a ripped weight lifter’s triceps. (Think Arnold Schwarzenegger.) If you become hooked, get a French lame gadget for surgically slashing. I don’t see a difference so long as you steel your knife first. A razor blade works too.
  • Preheat. Let the oven heat up for a good 30 minutes before baking. This can be done when the shaped loaf is rising for the last time.
  • Steam in oven. Moisture is needed to yield a nice crisp crust. A pan of water in the oven worked and spraying a few times added to a nice crust.
  • Eat fast. Even when I goofed, the bread tasted great — especially when freshly baked — about 30 minutes out of the oven, or whenever it had cooled sufficiently but was still warm.
  • Food processor. It actually works for bread like this. I stumbled across the unusual method by renowned author Jane Smiley in the August 2006 issue of Gourmet.  It doesn’t get any easier than this. Just use a large-capacity food processor. The bowl of the processor is the perfect environment for dough to rise. You just push the buttons.

Vietnamese__baguettebroken How to Make Vietnamese Baguette

Open a printable version

This recipe yields nice, tasty baguettes that you’ll be proud of. The crumb is soft and chewy but not light and airy like the super cheap ones that quickly go stale. The top crust is light and crisp, while the bottom and sides are just a tad soft. Perfect for making banh mi sandwiches or dipping in bo kho beef stew or a chicken curry. Yes, it takes a good 4 hours but consider it a time and culinary splurge.

Makes two 15-inch loaves, each about 14 ounces

  • 1 (1/4 ounce) package active dry yeast, Fleishman brand preferred, or fast-rise yeast, SAF brand preferred
  • 1/2 plus 1 cup warm water (105-115°F)
  • 3 1/2 cups low-protein, unbleached all-purpose flour, Gold Medal or Pillsbury brand preferred, plus extra for shaping the loaves
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 tablespoon sugar

Special equipment: Large capacity food processor; a double (15-inch long) dark, nonstick French bread pan; a razor blade or very sharp knife; plastic dough scraper; plastic spray bottle.

  1. Put the yeast in a small bowl and add the 1/2 cup water. Set aside for 2 to 3 minutes to soften the yeast. (It will look kind of blotchy as the granules break down. It may also get a bit foamy too.)
  2. Meanwhile, outfit the food processor with the regular chopping blade to make the dough. Put the flour, salt and sugar into the food processor.
  3. Return your attention to the yeast. Use a whisk or spoon to gently combine the yeast and water well. Pour in the 1 cup of water and gently whisk or stir again to combine. With the feed tube removed, start the food processor. Slowly pour the yeast mixture into the flour mixture in processor, blending just until the dough forms a ball and pulls away from side of processor bowl, about 1 minute.
  4. Replace the feed tube and let the dough rise until it nearly fills the bowl, about 1 hour. Pulse 1 or 2 times to slightly deflate the dough. Let the dough rise again and deflate. Let the dough rise one more time. You’re shooting for 3 risings. As you progress, each one will take less time.
  5. Flour your work surface and hands with about 1 tablespoon of flour. Detach the processor bowl from the machine. Holding the bowl upside down above your work surface, turn the very soft and sticky dough out onto your work surface, taking care to notice where the blade is in the blob of dough. (The dough scraper is handy for removing the dough from the walls of the processor bowl.) Remove the blade from the dough. Gently rotate the dough on your work surface so it is lightly covered by flour and does not stick. Use the dough scraper to divide the dough in half, setting one half off to the side. (If it’s unwieldy, use the scraper to move it around the work surface, lest the dough stick to your fingers!)
  6. Vietnamese_baguette_press To shape each baguette, use lightly floured hands to gently press one half of dough into an 8- by 5-inch rectangle or football shape. It should feel lofty and soft. The dough should naturally stretch lengthwise in one particular direction. Think of that as the grain of the dough. You want to shape the loaf along the grain of the dough to promote a big rise.
  7. Fold the top third down and the bottom third up as if you were folding a very wide and narrow business letter. Gently seal the edges by pressing with your fingers or the palm of your hand. The result should look like a fat log. (If you have a rectangle of sorts, you can repeat the folding and pinch the edges to seal to create a log.) Your aim is to coil the dough so that when it’s baking, it will spring and burst open beautifully. Try to keep as much of the air in the dough as possible without breaking the skin.
  8. Vietnamese_baguette_rolling Turn the log over (seam side down) and start rolling the log back and forth (have your hands flat facing downward) to elongate and stretch it into a 15-inch-long thick rope that’s 2 to 2 1/2 inches wide. Try not to stop for long lest the dough sticks to your work surface. The dough should be very soft and easily yield to your motions. Pick up the dough with both hands and place seam side down in the cradle of one of the bread pans. Repeat with the remaining half of dough.
  9. Loosely cover the loaves with a dish towel to prevent the dough from drying and inhibiting rising in the oven. Set aside in a warm draft-free place for 30 minutes, or until just shy of double the original size.
  10. Meanwhile, put a large roasting pan with 1 inch of hot water in it on bottom of gas oven or on lowest rack of electric oven. Position the oven rack in upper third of oven. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
  11. Vietnamese_baguette_slash When the loaves have risen enough, they’re ready for baking. Fill the spray bottle part way with water. Use a razor or sharp knife to make 4 or 5 shallow diagonal slashes down length of each log. The cuts should run the length of the log, be about 4 inches long each, and ¼ to 1/2 inch deep. Angle the razor or knife at about 30 degrees. Mist the loaves with 4 to 6 sprays of water.
  12. Slide the pan into the oven onto the upper 3rd rack and bake for 20 minutes. After baking for 3 minutes, mist the loaves. Repeat the misting after baking for another 3 minutes. Then, let the loaves bake. At the 15-minute mark, you may rotate the pan for even browning. At the 20-minute mark, gently turn (you may have to pry it free just a tad) the loaves bottom side up in the pan to promote even crisping and browning. Bake for about 5 minutes, during which you can even rotate the loaves so that the sides brown and crisp too, or until the loaves are crisp all over. The browning happens quickly at this stage so carefully monitor the loaves to prevent burning.
  13. Transfer each loaf to a rack to cool. The bread is wonderful warm after having cooled for about 30 minutes. They’ll remain at their best for about 6 hours after baking and can be reheated in the oven. Store overnight in a thick paper bag. To freeze for up to 2 months, wrap in a double layer of plastic wrap; defrost at room temperature and reheat in a 350F oven for about 10 minutes to refresh and crisp.Vietnamese_baguette_2
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7 responses to “Vietnamese Style Baguette Recipe (Baguette for Bánh mì)

  1. Hey, thanks for the recipe. Your experience re. using rice flour, cake flour, fat, etc. is VERY useful. It’d save me a lot of experimentation (and I’m one of those “Bread Baker’s Apprentice” bakers! 🙂 ). One blog claims that Vietnamese style baguettes are made with wheat and rice flour, which sounded highly suspicious to me, since rice flour has no gluten.

    • Thanks Andy. I do tend to think that rice flour is the authentic basis for the Bánh mì in Vietnam due to wheat not being used in the culture. Rice flour does not contain gluten but it does have components that act the same way when cooked and thus can be used in baking. It’s more a matter of preference than anything else.
      If a local Vietnamese bakery would give me their rice flour based recipe I’d be more than happy to use it. 🙂

  2. I found this:
    http://drfugawe.wordpress.com/2010/04/04/vietnamese-baguettes-revisited/

    That recipe calls for a small amount of rice flour plus a “slurry” of cooked rice. That kinda makes sense, since adding the slurry would be similar to adding milk, which makes the dough “richer”, producing a crumb that’s softer.

    I’m experimenting right now with a batch of French baguette dough, adding about 15% (by weight, relative to flour weight) cooked rice slurry. We’ll see how it works out…

    • Looks like you may be on to something. Did you use Glutinous Rice? While it has no real gluten I wonder if it would work better than the regular white rice.

  3. I used regular jasmine rice. I guess you could call them “long grain rice”. They come in 25-lbs bags at my local Asian grocery.

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